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I have found that a guy that is going to use a 156 track up from a 136 can use extensions for a 151 conversion and then move the suspension back 2.5 inches to make up the difference. Doing so decreases the approach angle of the track and helps the sled have a better deep snow floatation. All that needs to be done is a little simple math. Decide on what track you want and then buy the corresponding rail extension you need. (chart below)
Next you must do some measuring from existing mounting bolts. the
measurements are simply mapped out and new holes are drilled in the tunnel or the suspension mounting brackets can often be moved by drilling out the rivets and re-installing the bracket in a slightly different location. I have found by doing this on
some Polaris Indy's , that I can take the rear brackets off by drilling out the rivets and then reverse the brackets to give me my setback, then the brackets can be re-riveted back on using the
existing holes. On the front of some Indy's I have found I can drill out the rivet directly behind the mounting hole and
use that spot to mount my suspension. If time is taken to thoroughly inspect the mounts and decide on the
best way to re-mount the brackets using the least amount of drilling necessary
you can have a clean looking installation. I recommend using "buck rivets" if possible. If not, I use button head
Allen bolts. This is also clean looking. If you decide to take the time to do this customization to your sled it will help in deep snow floatation and aid in getting you higher up the hill than ever before.
Shmo
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| Existing Rails (in) | New Track (in) | Extensions Used (in) | Setback (in) |
| 133 | 141 | 133-136 | 2.5 |
| 133 | 136 | none | 1.5 |
| 136 | 141 | none | 2.5 |
| 136 | 144 | 136-141 | 1.5 |
| 136 | 151 | 136-144 | 3.5 |
| 136 | 156 | 136-151 | 2.5 |
| 144 | 151 | 133-136 | 2 |
| 144 | 156 | 144-151 | 2.5 |
| 151 | 156 | none | 2.5 |
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